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Stoneythorpe Hotel. Southam.Nr. Leamington Spa. Warwickshire

 
  The laying of vinyl tiles and or self adhesive.
 
  As with most DIY jobs, the final appearance of vinyl tile floor covering will only be as good as the sub-floor on which it is laid. It is important to carefully prepare the sub-floor before any tiles are laid.
  Strip off any old, damaged or uneven floor coverings; make sure that the surface is firm, clean, flat and smooth. If you intend laying over existing tiles, ensure that these are firmly stuck down - if in doubt, remove them.
  The sub-floor must be completely free of paint, oil, grease, bituminous compounds and any solvent based materials.
  Concrete floors must incorporate a damp-proof membrane. New floors must be allowed to dry out completely - the recommended time, with adequate ventilation, is 1 day per mm (1 inch per month) up to 50mm thickness. More time will need to be allowed for greater thicknesses. Cold, wet weather will slow down the drying process.
  Use a suitable self-levelling compound to repair depressions and uneven concrete surfaces.
  Sand and cement screed should be sealed with a suitable primer.
  Timber floorboards - think carefully before laying tiles on timber floorboards; electric and plumbing services often run under floorboards and it will be nigh impossible to reuse the tiles and sub-floor if they have to be lifted. A more satisfactory flooring may be roll material which normally only needs to be stuck down along some edges.
  Remove protruding nails and secure loose boards. Do not lay direct onto new boards as these may shrink. Sub surface irregularities show through so level warped or worn boards by sanding, planning or, preferably by overlaying with 6 mm exterior grade plywood or hardboard (smooth side up). Secure the sheets at 150mm (6") centres by screws or nails - use annular ring nails to reduce the possibility of the nails working up into the tiles. When using hardboard, the sheets should be dampened 24 hours before installation so that they can be laid flat and to prevent subsequent unevenness.
  Always ensure that floorboards on ground floors are adequately ventilated beneath.
  The use of a suitable floor primer is recommended for all absorbent timber surfaces such as plywood, hardboard and chipboard.
  Always ensure that floorboards on ground floors are adequately ventilated beneath.
  The use of a suitable floor primer is recommended for all absorbent timber surfaces such as plywood, hardboard and chipboard.
  Timber treated with wood preservative is not suitable as a sub-floor, even if overlaid - the fumes can affect the adhesive.
  Ensure that the final surface is completely dry, smooth and firm; remove any paint, grease, wax, polish, etc. and brush clean to give a completely dust-free surface.
  Quarry tiles - provided the tiles are sound and are protected by an underlying damp-proof membrane, skim over the tiles and fill the joints with a latex screeding compound.
Planning to lay vinyl tiles
  There is a wide choice of plain or patterned designs available for vinyl tiles.
  The choice of colour and/or design is a personal matter, but there are a couple of other variations you can consider, but remember that the flooring will be permanent once laid so it pays to think carefully:
  Just because tiles are generally square does not mean you have to line up the edges parallel with the walls in a square room, another option is to have the tile edges at 45 degrees to the wall lines. This can give a relatively plain room, a bit of added character. Don't use any other angle of alignment unless you are really adventurous.
  You can mix colours (or even patterns) by buying different pack of tiles. Mixing colours is fairly straightforward although don't use too many different colours and choose the colours to match or complement each other.
You can mix colours evenly (every other tile in a row being a different colour) or have a different colour tile every (say) 3rd tile. You can also use different colours as a border or to insert a large pattern.
Patterned tiles can be mixed in a similar manner although it is often best to have either the same basic pattern of different colours or different patterns with similar colours.
Avoid mixing different bold patterns. If you choose to mix patterns or colours, try to repeat the pattern over the whole area - if you try to have a random mixture you will find people try to work out a pattern.
  It is best to actually draw out a plan of the room to work out the number of tiles you require, don't rely on straight conversion of room area divided by individual tile area.
  It is very unlikely that:
  Any two adjacent walls will be at right angles
  Any two opposite walls will be parallel
  The distance between any two opposite walls will be equal to an exact number of floor tiles.
  Look at the various sizes of tile, there are a large range available.
  Try to keep to a single size unless you want to insert a narrow border or unless you are very adventurous.
  When buying packets of tiles, always check that all boxes have the same batch number to ensure that the colour tints are the same on all tiles. Make sure that you purchase sufficient packs to complete the job, allow for a few additional tiles to allow for waste and future repair.
  Setting out for vinyl tiles
  Determine the centre of both end (shortest) walls, you may wish to 'centre' the tiling on a particular feature (such as a bay window), so you can call the centre of the bay the centre of the wall). Stretch a piece of string at floor level between the wall centres, secure the string at both ends by tying it around a heavy object (such as a brick).
  Mark the centre of the string, an easy way to do this is to wrap a piece of masking tape around the string.
  Starting with the corner of a tile at the centre mark on the string, loose lay a row of tiles along the string between the two end walls. (If laying the tiles at 45 degrees, lay the tiles under the string so that diagonally opposite corners are in line with the string). 
  Check the size of the edge gaps, if the gaps are too small (i.e. less than half a tile), move the mark in the centre of the string by half a tile's width, and move the row along by half a tile width until an equal gap is achieved at each side of the room.
  Lay out another single row of loose tiles either side of the string at right angles. Check the edge gaps at the side walls and if necessary, reposition the string by moving it half a tile to achieve an even edge gap in excess of half a tile width.
  Check the position of any external corners (like the front of a chimneybreast) and the back of any bay or recess - make sure that no edge gap will be too narrow. Any edge gap of less than about 25mm (1 inch) may cause problems both when cutting and also with adhesion to the sub floor.
  Adjust the position of the string and/or the mark near the centre of the string until you are happy with the overall layout. Each time you adjust the string, recheck the previously established edge gaps.
  When you are happy with the layout, the mark near the centre of the string is the starting point for positioning the corner of the first tile to be laid.
  Laying vinyl tiles
  Thoroughly sweep or vacuum the sub-floor to remove all dust etc. You are now ready to start laying the tiles.
  Always read and follow the guidelines/instructions provided by the tile manufacturers.
  Get to know your tiles ! Generally there will be an arrow marked on the reverse, the tiles must be laid with the arrow running in the same direction (although the tiles are usually nominally square, there is often an inaccuracy which will not have an effect if all the tiles are laid with the arrow in the same direction).
  Packets of self-adhesive Vinyl tiles should normally be opened and kept in warm conditions for 24 hours before laying.
  Decide upon the direction that the arrow should point - it does not matter which direction is chosen providing you remember it and always use it. It is often useful to make a note of the direction in case you are interrupted while laying the floor - marking it on a piece of masking tape applied to the first tile you lay should be an adequate reminder.
  Making a note of the direction of the arrow, peel off the backing from the first tile and CAREFULLY place it with a corner at your starting point.
  For none adhesive tiles apply adhesive to an area large enough to become workable. Always use the correct adhesive for the tile and read the instructions for this carefully.
  Check that it is correctly positioned along the string, initially press it down gently, then working from the centre outwards apply firmer pressure all over - finally rub along each edge. Lay the second tile against a side of the first tile, before firming it down ensure a close fit between the tiles but do not force them together and ensure that it is square and in line with the tile already laid.
  Continue laying additional tiles (note the direction of the arrow before you remove each piece of backing paper).
Do not lay the tiles as a strip one tile wide, 'build' out from the first tile into a quarter of the room until all the full tiles are laid. Then repeat in an adjacent quarter, and then the final two quarters.
  Tip: As you kneel on freshly laid tile to continue the installation, place a piece of plywood on top of a cloth between yourself and the tile. This will spread your weight and reduce the possibility of individual tiles being damaged or slipping.
  Cutting edge tiles
  To ensure an accurate fit at the walls, loose lay a single full tile exactly over the tile laid nearest the wall (making sure that the arrow is correctly aligned), then place another tile on top of it and up against the wall. Draw a line across the 'middle' tile where the top tile overlaps it. If one part will not have the arrow indication after cutting, mark the reverse with the arrow using a felt tip marker. Cut the tile (using a sharp knife and a steel straightedge) along the line. Before peeling off the backing paper, check that the cut tile actually fits. Remove the backing paper and fit it into position with the cut edge against the wall.
  For corners, use the above technique twice, once on each side of the corner. Cut the tile away from the corner to avoid over cutting into the area to be laid.
  To fit around irregular shapes (such as doorways, mouldings or pipes etc.), make a cardboard template to exact size and use this to draw the outline on a tile. Cut the tile to shape, before peeling off the backing paper, check that the tile fits (it should fit snugly and should not need to be forced into place).
  When you have finished laying all the tiles, go over the floor once again to check that all tiles are firmly stuck down, pay particular attention to the edges.
  After installation of a new vinyl tile floor, clean the surface with a suitable cleaner and then apply 2 coats of a suitable emulsion protective finish (check the manufacturers instructions).
  Do not wet the floor for 5 to 7 days.
  After care of vinyl tiles
  Never use excessive amounts of water when cleaning vinyl tiles.
  Sweep the floor regularly to remove surface grit and dust. Wipe over with a damp cloth or mop. When necessary a mild detergent can be added to the water. DO NOT use abrasive cleaners.
  Furniture left in the same position for any length of time will produce depressions in the floor covering, using protective pads under the furniture will reduce the damage.