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Stoneythorpe Hotel. Southam.Nr. Leamington Spa. Warwickshire

 
 Laminate floors.
  Brief guide line into the fitting of laminate floors. The fitting of click system laminate is basically the same except the use of adhesive is usually not required. Always read the manufacturers instructions first.
  New housing tends to have at least one room laminated floored. Many existing rooms are being re-floored with laminates. Laminates are clean non-allergenic , planet friendly and fashionable. Experts predict a market penetration of 25% in 2 to 3 years. If continental trends are followed here , this is no 9 day wonder. Therefore traditional floor covering markets are under attack. So if you depend solely on these you must consider wood and laminate floors. Two markets are now active DIY and installation to fit wood well is no easy task and if you decided to branch out and fit this product you will need to spend monies on decent tools . 

  1. JIG SAW.

  2. HAND SAW.

  3. WOOD FLOOR FITTING KIT.

  4. STRAPS.

  5. 9" TABLE CHOP SAW.

  6. DOOR FRAME  AND PERIMETER CUTTER.

  • To fit wood well take your time.

  • Wood does not like water or moisture.

  • Check for damp.

  • Always use a D.P.M. if you are not sure.

  • Make sure floor's are smooth and level as possible. Latex floor if required.

  • Use the recommended underlay.

  • None click systems: Double glue join's wipe away surplus well this will help to resist water when cleaning the surface.

  • Bull nose steps can be difficult plan in advance.

  • Avoid walking on the wood until the adhesive has set, I use 2'*4' sheets of chip board to spread the load.
  Do not open flooring packages until you are ready to begin installation. Store the unopened packages in the room where  flooring will be installed for at least 72 hours prior to installation. Room should be dry and at normal (60-75 degrees F) temperature
  Your sub floor should be clean, smooth, dry and level. There are various ways to conduct the necessary moisture test, including the use of an electric moisture meter or by conducting your own simple moisture test. Just tape a thin plastic film (at least 18"x18") at the edges onto the sub floor. If you notice moisture accumulation after at least 24 hours, do not install the flooring and contact a qualified installer, or your supplier. These products are not recommended for use in full bathrooms with tubs and showers.  Manufacturers can not be held liable for any installation of wood flooring when installed on an improperly prepared sub floor or where excessive moisture might be present.
  Please make certain that you do not install any pieces that appear defective. For the most pleasing appearance, it is recommended that you lay out and preview your floor prior to gluing.
  Floating hardwood flooring may be installed over any sub floor that is sound, dry and level within 3/16" in 10 linear feet. Following are some things you can do before installation that will make your installation go smoothly.
Remove all doors and base moldings.
  •  

    • Undercut door jambs and casings, using a piece of flooring and foam to establish proper height for undercut.
      If necessary to level an uneven floor, use a latex patching compound to level the floor. Also, remember to sand down high spots in the floor.
      If applying your floor below grade, the cement sub floor must be sealed with a quality sealer or primer.
      Remember that your room must be dry and within normal room temperature (60-75 degrees F).
      For moisture resistance and sound deadening, you must also use poly foam over cement.
      For radiant heated sub floors, the heating must be turned off for at least 72 hours prior to, during, and 24 hours after installation.
      Maximum floor heat under normal use should not exceed 85 degrees F, and should only be increased gradually after installation.
      Heat pipes must be covered with 1" concrete or be at least 1/8" below plywood sub floor. Heat pipes must not come in       contact with the flooring.
      Decide which direction your flooring should be installed. A good rule of thumb is to install  hardwood flooring planks so they run parallel to the incoming light source. However, a very narrow or small room looks best when the length of the plank is installed along the length of the room.

  • Skip this stage if you are installing above ground level. If you are installing the floor on concrete below or at ground level, however, you must first install a polyethylene film over the entire floor as a moisture barrier. Overlap film seams by at least 6 inches.

  Floating hardwood flooring may be installed over any sub floor that is sound, dry and level within 3/16" in 10 linear feet. Following are some things you can do before installation that will make your installation go smoothly.
  Run a straight, taut string line 3/4" above sub floor and 1/4" away from the longest wall. Line up your flooring with the string, not the wall. If concerned with the transmission of sound, use Film Foam prior to installing your floor.
  Install the first row of planks, applying glue to the ends you are butting together, with the groove side facing the wall. Place a 1/4-inch minimum thickness shim or spacer at the edge end of each plank between the wall and the edge of the plank. Make sure that the plank edge is aligned with the taut line. The 1/4" space allows for expansion.
  On the second row of planks and all subsequent planks, apply a bead of quality moisture resistant wood glue along the entire length of the lower lip of the groove and along the top surface of the tongue, applying glue to all edges. Stagger each plank with a minimum of 12" from the next adjoining plank. After gluing the first two rows, allow the glue to dry approximately 2 to 4 hours before continuing. Take this time to lay out and preview your floor for the most appealing appearance.
  After the glue in the first two rows has set, continue gluing and installing using a wood block placed squarely against the tongue to tap the blanks into place, side to side, and end to end. Immediately wipe all excess adhesive from the surface using a damp cloth.
  Trim the last board to fit, leaving enough room to place a 1/4-inch spacer. Use a pry bar to position the last plank.
  Allow at least 12 hours for the floor to set before walking on it. Then remove the spacers and apply the base molding. Take care in nailing the molding to the wall and not the floor, leaving intentional expansion space under the base molding of 1/4 inch.
Replacing Boards
Nailed Boards
  If the board has been nailed down, set an electric skill saw at 5/8" (the thickness of our flooring) and saw through the middle of the damaged piece, sawing as closely as possible to each end. Then use a sharp wood chisel to cut the ends. Replace the damaged board with a new board.
Glued Down Boards
  If the board was installed with adhesive, simply peel up the board with a chisel. Then cut off the "bottom tongue" of the groove side of the replacement piece. Add glue to the floor and work the new piece into place
Floating Boards
  If the board was installed with the floating method, cut the damaged piece (as per nailed board instructions) and gently break it loose. Again, cut off the "bottom tongue" of the groove side. Glue the replacement piece into place using a good construction adhesive. You may also replace the foam in that area with hardboard to make the area more solid, but if your workmanship is good, that won't be necessary. Just be sure to use construction glue rather than white or yellow glue if hardboard is not used.
Option
  Carefully chisel away the top layer of the damaged board. Then remove the top layer of a new board with a table saw and glue it into place with a good contact adhesive.